Julie Kegels' Fall 2026 Collection: Auramaxxing
Belgian designer Julie Kegels presented a captivating fall collection, titled "Face Value," that delves into the complexities of image control in a hyper-visible world. The show, set against a backdrop of dissonant violin plucks, showcased a unique approach to fashion, emphasizing the construction of garments rather than the typical social media-driven trends.
Kegels' inspiration stemmed from Andy Warhol's concept of "aura," as well as the surreal long-exposure portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, which were influenced by the existentialist philosopher Martin Heidegger. This fusion of ideas resulted in a thought-provoking exploration of authenticity versus shadow.
The collection featured innovative silhouettes, such as capes that gracefully billowed from shoulders to ankles, jackets transformed into flowing dresses, and pajama tops enlarged into gowns. A simple white button-down shirt became a dramatic cape, while a skirt appeared to unravel at the waist, gracefully draping to one side. These shapes were achieved through a unique process: Kegels photographed garments in her Antwerp atelier, carefully lighting them to create dramatic shadows, and then utilized these distorted patterns to craft entirely new forms.
Additionally, Kegels employed a technique she called "forced tailoring," manipulating the body's stance through precise cuts. Sleeves were designed to push the arms forward with military-like precision, while shrunken pullovers were sliced open at the back of the shoulders, creating a playful contrast with the fabric's colorful wings. This interplay of control and imperfection was a recurring theme.
The collection also incorporated exposed seams, highlighting the contrast between the intended design and the unexpected. Interestingly, what was meant to be a jarring, jagged hat design inadvertently evoked the adorable headgear of the cartoon character Calimero, leading Kegels to embrace childlike references, such as cozy baby blankets that doubled as wrap skirts. This unexpected twist added a layer of whimsy to the collection.
In a post-show backstage interview, Kegels reflected on the concept of "aura," stating, "The aura is a shield. We present an appearance, but it may not always align with our true selves. The Julie Kegels woman seeks control, yet she understands its inherent imperfections."
Kegels' collection challenges the notion that our aura, much like Warhol's famous quote, can quickly fade with each word we utter. Through her innovative designs and clever use of shadows, she demonstrates how a well-crafted outfit can momentarily sustain the illusion of control, even in a world that constantly demands our attention.
